Do you know your chirashi from your sashimi? Ever wondered if you’re actually eating sushi the right way? Fear not, our complete guide neatly rolls it up into one delicious answer. From its long history to understanding the different kinds, here’s everything you need to know about sushi in Japan before you pack your bags.
What does sushi mean?
Sushi means ‘sour rice’ in Japanese. Sushi rice, known as su-meshi or shari, is actually made with vinegar to create that sweet, salty, and sour flavour. It helps preserve the rice, makes it easier to break apart, and keeps the pans from getting ruined by cement-like rice after every cook.
Most people think of raw fish when they hear the word ‘sushi’ but the fish is actually just the garnish or neta. Give them a chance and sushi connoisseurs can bore you silly talking about the importance of the shari. But when you travel the distance and that first perfect bundle hits your tongue, you'll likely be going on about it forever too.
Sit down for some sushi on: Japan Express – Osaka to Tokyo
The history of sushi
Sushi’s global popularity is a relatively new thing. Sushi bars only started opening in Los Angeles in the 1970s, and not in London until the 1990s. However, its origins are traced all the way back to 500 BC China, where it was used to preserve fish in salt. The fish, fermented with rice over several months, was known as nare-zushi or aged sushi. This method eventually reached Japan in the 7th century but instead of chucking the rice after fermentation, the Japanese started eating it with the fish. Thus the sushi story begins!
In the 1800s, nigiri (slices of fresh fish over vinegar rice balls) became popular with merchants and craftsmen as a type of fast food. This invention, created by Hanaya Yohei, is thought to be the beginning of the modern sushi phenomena.
Nowadays, thanks to fridges, raw fish is probably the most popular form of sushi. However, back in the Edo-era, traditional sushi would often be cooked or cured in some way. What about seaweed? The use of nori, or thin sheets of seaweed, came about in the early 1700s and, like today, was often used to wrap cooked rice into a neat tasty parcel. Only certain forms of sushi use seaweed. Most traditional Japanese sushi is simply fish and rice.
Sit down for some sushi on: Korea & Japan Encompassed
Traditional Japanese sushi vs. Western sushi
Japanese sushi and Western sushi are very different. If you’ve been to a sushi bar outside of Japan, you’re used to multi-ingredient rolls topped with mayo and fried onions, served with soy sauce for dipping. Japanese sushi is all about simplicity. No chilli mayo. No cream cheese and avocado. No batter. Just fish, rice, and maybe some seaweed. Simple is best.
It’s also worth noting that traditional Japanese sushi is sold everywhere – at train stations, fish markets like Tsukiji, shopping malls, and underground bars. Some of the most hole-in-the-wall looking places are the best. It’s not like Western sushi which often commands a handsome fee.
Sit down for some sushi on: Journeys: Iconic Japan
Types of sushi
Look at any sushi menu and you might feel a little overwhelmed. There are a lot of choices! Here are seven main varieties to ‘maki’ life a little easier:
Nigiri
Not to be confused with the booze-laden Negroni, Nigiri is a slice of fresh fish draped over sushi rice. It’s the iconic style of sushi.
Maki
A fish or veggie filling wrapped in rice and then a layer of seaweed around the outside. There’s also a variety with rice on the outside.
Temaki
Similar to maki but cone-shaped and eaten by hand. It looks like a little fishy bouquet.
Cherashi
Meaning ‘scattered’ in Japanese, is essentially a bowl of sushi rice and fish, mushrooms, or vegetables. Some people might call it deconstructed sushi.
Inari
Essentially sushi rice in a bag of deep-fried tofu. Cheap and cheerful!
Gunkan
Looks a bit like a cake. It’s a small cup of sushi rice, wrapped in seaweed and filled with seafood, often using sea urchin or fish eggs.
If you’re feeling adventurous, you could go for Okakase or ‘chef’s choice’. There are different levels here so be careful! Nami is the standard option, jō is the premium and toku-jō is super premium, often including ingredients like salmon roe and sea urchin. It’s all tasty though so you can’t really go wrong ordering sushi in Japan. Unless you don’t like rice or fish. Then it’s a bit more challenging but there are veggie options.
Sit down for some sushi on: Japan: Kyoto, Tokyo & the Michinoku Coastal Trail
Sashimi in Japan
Sashimi is technically not sushi. It’s just fish. Well, not just fish. It’s the freshest raw fish prepared in such a way to let the flavours pop, without rice. Despite not being sushi, it is on offer at sushi restaurants.
There are many different types of sashimi. The most common are probably maguro (tuna), sake (salmon), tai (sea bream), and saba (mackerel). But tofu and red meats can also be used and are just as delicious. The type of cuts determine what flavours and textures you get.
Some people enjoy eating sashimi with soy, wasabi, and ginger but it’s best not to go overboard. Dip responsibly people! If served with daikon or shiso, the fresh mintiness of these veggie garnishes complements the fish well.
Sit down for some sushi on: Active Japan: Mt Fuji & Hokkaido
How to eat sushi
Eating sushi can be a little daunting, especially if you haven’t got your provisional chopstick license. On top of that, there are rules to eating sushi in Japan. Here are a few tips for mastering sushi-eating etiquette:
- Never leave your chopsticks in the bowl, lay them flat across or use the chopstick rest.
- If dipping, always dip the topping first, not the rice. Soaking the rice will absorb too much soy and destabilize the sushi. Don't be the person responsible for a saucerful of sad rice.
- We've said it countless times but - ginger is a palate cleanser, not a topping!
- Eat the fish in the order the chef recommends or the order it's brought to you.
- Eat sushi quickly. Traditionally it's a fast food so best to eat at its perfect temperature.
- You can eat nigiri with your fingers, no need for chopsticks. If you want to show off your chopstick skills though, that's fine too.
- Easy on wasabi. The chef has already seasoned your fish so approach with caution.
- If ordering a la carte, always end with a richer fish like sea urchin.
- This should be a given, but if you're at one of those conveyor belt restaurants, only take what you intend to eat. Don't put plates back on the conveyor. That's a big no-no.
- If you want to look like a pro, order a green tea or sake. Both go excellently with sushi.
There you have it, our essential guide to eating sushi in Japan. Hopefully it’s helped you know your unagi (eel) from your umami (flavour found in seaweed and miso). If not, just roll with it. You’ll find freshly made sushi everywhere you turn on your travels in Japan. Fair warning: you’ll have a hard time going back to California rolls.
