Hike to the sky: Trekking Lares

July 17, 2014 Michael Turtle

The first surprise of the evening comes just a few kilometres from camp. As we approach the end of the first day’s hike, we’re a little later than groups usually are. The sun should be higher in the sky at this point, but we left late, waiting for some rain to pass.


As we walk down a dirt road, we’re joined by local farmers. They’re collecting their animals from the grazing areas and herding them back to their village. We fall into line with them, joining the procession of sheep, llamas, and alpacas. We catch odd looks from the animals but smiles from the locals. One young girl proudly shows off a newborn lamb she’s cradling in her arms.

andean girl holding baby lamb

David, our guide, doesn’t seem too worried that we’re late, although this is unusual for him. He knows the way well enough, but even he is surprised when we turn a corner and see the valley in front of us.

Animals are grazing on the grass between the small creeks that flow through the plain. Everything on the ground is already in shadow, though, because the sun is so low. But on the other side of the valley, a tall mountain stands in brightness. Most of it is bare rock with no plants visible. But a large white glacier has cut down one side of it. The ice sparkles in the sunlight and the rock glows a warm contrasting orange. We all stop. David takes out his phone and takes a photo. Even a guide who has done this trek so many times can find something new and amazing each time on the Lares Trek.

vally landscape

While most people who arrive in Cusco with plans to walk to Machu Picchu take the traditional Inca Trail, the Lares Trek offers something very different – and very special. It takes a completely different route away from the majority of trekkers, winding through more dramatic scenery and local communities. (It doesn’t arrive at Machu Picchu directly, though, so you need to take a train and a bus to arrive there on the final day.)

On this first evening, though, as we cross the grassy plain, dodging horses and llamas, that still seems a long way ahead of us. Tonight we’re camping near the village with the mountain keeping watch over us.

[Editor’s note: The campsite Michael visited is the result of a partnership between Planeterra, G Adventures’ non-profit foundation, and the Multilateral Investment Fund to help local communities benefit from travellers exploring the Sacred Valley. Go here to learn more.]

Still, perhaps it’s a good step towards acclimatization – there’s a big day ahead.

It turns out to be a sensible purchase; today’s hike takes us up 4,800m (3 mi). The air is cold and thin, and breathing is difficult at times. But the views are incredible and we walk through changing landscapes from an altitude few ever experience… but it’s still a hard day of trekking. Come to think of it, I’m glad I had that shower!

porters preparing dinner

tents in the mountain landscape

shower cabins at the campsite

tour leader giving information to group

hikers walking along rocky terrain

landscape with path and lake

Getting There

Want to get Active? Whether you’re eager to see what you’re made of or merely want to see some of the world’s great vantage points for yourself, we’ve got you covered.  G Adventures runs a number of departures on the Lares Trek. We’re thrilled at the prospect of showing you Peru as you’ve never seen it — check out our small group trips here.

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