When we mention travelling to Haiti, some people give us a blank look, others ask questions, and many do both.
Is travel even a thing in Haiti? Is it safe? What does Haiti have to offer the traveller?
Our answers are yes, yes, and, as it turns out, a whole lot.
Fishermen take to the seas at Cap-Haïtien in northern Haiti.
In Haiti we were repeatedly surprised, not only by the diversity of experiences that the country offers, but also the depth of culture, artistic creativity, Vodou mystery, and more. We’re here to break it all down and highlight a few of the memorable moments on our recent trip there. Let’s get started!
1. Cap-Haïtien: Citadelle Laferrière and Sans Souci Palace
Haiti was the first independent country in the Caribbean and Latin America, born of a slave revolt that managed to defeat the colonial French army. The northern part of the country near the city of Cap-Haïtien was important not only in the fight for independence, but also in the defense and governing of the newly established nation.
The single best place to learn more about this distinction in context: the UNESCO-designated sites of La Citadelle Laferrière and Sans Souci Palace – both built in the early 19th century by Henri Christophe, Haiti’s first appointed king.
It takes a short trek to reach the imposing Citadelle Laferrière perched on top of a mountain.
It takes a short trek to reach the imposing Citadelle Laferrière perched on top of a mountain.
2. Port-au-Prince: Avant Garde Artists at Atis Rezistans
Haiti’s frenetic capital city can feel overwhelming at first with its crowds of people, traffic, and buzz of energy on the streets. But it’s these characteristics that help fuel the creativity of the city’s many artists working their craft. One of the best places to see unfettered artistic expression at work is at Atis Rezistans, a community of sculptors, painters and wood-carvers who live, create and display their work along a segment of Port-au-Prince’s Grand Rue.
A father plies his trade as his daughter looks on at Atis Rezistans.
The art produced at Atis Rezistans is raw, uncensored, influenced by Vodou, and probably unlike anything you’ve seen. Walking through the makeshift studios and urban galleries, one feels a palpable sense of emotion and creative energy. Haiti’s artistic expression is distinct, like no other. Cool-hunters and art world trendsetters take note. The energy and work at Atis Rezistans left us feeling as though we’ll never consider art and sculpture in quite the same way again.
Rebirth in art. Haitian artists rely heavily on recycled materials, bringing new life to discarded items.
3. Port-au-Prince: Meeting with a Vodou Priest
Vodou (voodoo) is an important aspect of Haitian belief that influences life, culture and art in the country. Technically speaking, Vodou is a complex belief system that includes hundreds of lwa (spirits) that serve as an intermediary for a single god. Each spirit possesses unique attributes and different characteristics, including preferences regarding how he or she wants to be served.
A table of offerings for a lwa (spirit), including alcohol, gifts and food.
On one of our afternoon outings in Port-au-Prince, we had the opportunity to spend time at a Vodou ounfo (temple) with its hougon (priest) in residence whose explanations not only shed light on the process of being ordained, but also what sorts of ceremonies he performs in that role. Our encounter served the dual purpose of reserving a bit of the mystery while dispelling a few of the dehumanizing and overblown stereotypes of Vodou we’re all accustomed to seeing in Hollywood movies.
4. Jacmel: Waterfalls and Teaching Art to Underprivileged Children
A few kilometers up into the hills outside of the coastal town of Jacmel rests the hillside oasis of Bassin-Bleu, a network of waterfalls and clear pools of remarkably blue water. Take a short hike out to the farthest of the pools and jump in. The experience is refreshing and relaxing. If you fancy yourself brave enough, climb up to the highest rock and take the plunge down into the clear water below. Alternately, chill out, breathe deeply and wait for one of the locals to show you how it’s done.
Locals and visitors alike enjoy Bassin-Bleu, though few are brave (or crazy) enough to jump.
Jacmel is also known for its art, and in particular its artisanal tradition of papier-mâché. So it is that the Art Creation Foundation for Children (ACFFC) employs art to inspire their 105 students to be independent and productive members of society. The foundation and its leaders approach this first by training underprivileged children in practical art skills, offering a base of skills to help them become self-sufficient in life. In addition to art classes, ACFFC also ensures each of its accepted students attend school, eat healthy meals each day, get basic health care, and receive whatever additional educational support and guidance they need to enable their success.
ACFFC’s talented students create this beautiful papier-mâché.
As Georges B. Metellus, ACFFC’s director, told us, “The goal is for all kids here to become responsible parents and to make a living from what they learn.” (Note: You can also follow ACFFC’s great work on Instagram.)
Meeting Tiko, a student at ACFFC who was able to get a job at a local Jacmel art shop.
5. Port-à-Piment and Port Salut: Caves and Beaches
Caves in Haiti – who knew? After a short walk up in the hills above southern Haiti’s Port-à-Piment, we were pleasantly surprised by what’s hidden in the underbrush: a remarkable network of underground caves known as Grotte Marie Jeanne. Stalactites and stalagmites all around bend one’s imagination to see faces, creatures and objects in these inanimate shapes.
Following our guide into the cave chambers at Grotte Marie Jeanne.
Then it’s time to relax at the beaches near Port Salut and soak up all that the white sand, clear waters, and colourful fishing boats have to offer. We order some local seafood, enjoy the ocean view, take a dip in the warm Caribbean waters, and let our cares melt away – if even for a moment.
Taking a rest from the catch, fishing boats along the beach near Port Salut.
Then, we enjoy the sunset with a Haitian rum sour cocktail in hand and reflect on all that we’ve just seen, felt, and experienced in Haiti.
Another day comes to an end at Port Salut in southern Haiti.
Getting There
Want to get a jump start on planning your trip to Haiti? Jump in here with our Highlights of Haiti tour and sign up to see one of this planets most friendly cultures. This is your planet, what are you waiting for?
